When traveling in Sri Lanka, you have the option to take public transport, colloquially known as the chicken buses, but driving your own car can be an exciting way to explore. I knew I wanted the freedom to go wherever, whenever, but driving in Sri Lanka comes with its own set of challenges. Here is some travel advice for Sri Lanka to help you navigate the road safely, handle police checks and make sure you have the proper documentation before you get behind the wheel.
Rent a car in Sri Lanka here.
Sri Lankan Travel Story
While in Sri Lanka I rented a car to get around the island. One day, I was driving on a toll road and paused to get my toll ticket. As I did so, a policeman waved me over to the side of the road. There were no other cars around and I didn’t think I’d done anything wrong. As a solo female traveler in a developing nation, I was weary of government officials. He proceeded to ask for my license (endorsed by the DMT in Sri Lanka). I had an electronic copy that was messaged over early that morning (thank goodness!) but not a hard copy. He seemed fine with that, though told me I should have a paper copy of it. He then started chatting me up, telling me we needed to swap What’s App information because he wanted to invite me to dinner and practice his English. Now, if I was in a group, I might have taken this as a welcoming, friendly gesture. But as a young woman, alone on the road with a police officer and no one else around, I was on edge by this interaction. I thought quickly on my feet and told him my phone wasn’t really working, but I would take his What’s App information and when I reached Wi-Fi, I would send him a message (which I obviously never did). I know other travelers have had friendly police stop them and felt it was a positive interaction. But could these older men please put themselves in our shoes? How is it appropriate, professional or safe for an older man of authority to request (read pressure) a younger female tourist for her private information with no legal reasoning? Take care ladies when driving in Sri Lanka.
Driving Requirements in Sri Lanka
Just having an international driving license (IDP) is not enough in Sri Lanka. You need to get your non-Sri Lankan license “verified” in Sri Lanka before you can drive. This process can take some time, so it’s best to apply early.
Your IDP must be endorsed by the Automobile Association of Ceylon (AAC) or the Department of Motor Traffic (DMT) in Sri Lanka. Most rental car companies will offer to process your paperwork before you arrive with the AAC for a small fee ($20-$50 usually).
You can choose to go to the DMT yourself with the paperwork (and it’s cheaper) but I would recommend not wasting your valuable time in country. If you choose to get your rental car company to process the paperwork on your behalf, you will need to send an electronic copy of your passport, international driving license and a passport photo to them prior to your arrival (again, allow for a couple of weeks for processing).
Travel Note: I booked my travel to Sri Lanka rather last minute and didn’t book a rental car until 2 days before arrival. When I arrived in Colombo, the rental car representative had no record of my booking, and I had to wait at the airport for 1.5 hours and then was picked up and driven 20 mins away. I was given the same car that picked me up with 100k miles on it and a squeaky transmission. I had sent all the paperwork for processing my IDP endorsement, and yet, due to the lateness of my reservation the company told me it was not yet done. I received my car, and they basically said, “keep your fingers crossed and don’t get pulled over.” That was Monday. On Thursday morning, I finally received an electronic copy of my temporary license in Sri Lanka. Hours later I was pulled over by the cop in my story above.
Driving on the Left
They drive on the left in Sri Lanka, which for this American, is the wrong side of the road. Couple this with all the dogs napping in the street, tuk-tuks and buses whizzing around you and general lack of road signs, it makes driving in Sri Lanka quite the adventure. Driving in Colombo is the most chaotic, so try to avoid it as much as possible.
Be Aware of Toll Booths
Sri Lanka has highways, or expressways, with toll booths all around the island. These roads are in much better condition, allow you to drive faster and are less crowded. However, you must stop when entering for a ticket and again at your exit ramp to pay the fee. All fees must be paid in cash (only rupees) but are generally no more than a few dollars.
Local Traffic Customs
Be flexible and on constant alert. Drivers in Sri Lanka use their horns much more than we do in the States. I thought it was because I was doing something wrong, but learned it’s more to alert you they are passing or coming up on you. Turn signals are used (which is helpful) but not always (especially when a bus is pulling over to pick or drop someone off). Brake lights are often broken, so don’t expect to be alerted this way when someone is slowing. Buses will stop frequently and without warning, even if they just passed you at breakneck speed. You are sharing the road with other cars, scooters, tuk-tuks, tractors, buses, pedestrians and of course dogs and cows. The dogs made me the most anxious because they don’t seem to mind the crazy traffic conditions and will literally walk across the street at any time or simply lay down in the road and nap.
Google Maps
Google Maps worked most of the time really well, but make sure you start your trip while you have good service in case you lose it en route. Google Maps doesn’t tell you if a road is all dirt or super narrow, so proceed with caution in remote areas. I usually choose to take the toll road option when given different paths because even if it added mileage, the toll roads were less stressful and better maintained.
Stay Connected
Ensure you have a reliable way to communicate, especially as a solo female traveler while driving through remote areas of Sri Lanka. Get a local SIM card or an international e-Sim with Airalo, my favorite company for regional and country-specific coverage. Right now, when you grab an e-Sim, you can save 15% on your first eSIM with code NEWTOAIRALO15 and 10% on your next eSIM with code AIRALOESIM10. Share your itinerary with friends or family and keep them updated on your whereabouts. Apps like WhatsApp and Google Maps are invaluable for navigation and staying in touch with your support network. Double check with your accommodation beforehand that you can reach them by car. There are a few instances where guesthouses are down narrow lanes without car access.
For more information on international phone plans and the best ways to stay connected, check out my post here.
Driving in Sri Lanka can give you the freedom to see the country at your own pace, but it requires vigilance and a good understanding of the local customs and requirements. Stay vigilant and alert, with all the proper paperwork on hand. Check out the best deals for a rental car in Sri Lanka here. Enjoy the adventure!
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